ICBRKR GUIDE: SINGAPORE

“Nobody in Singapore drinks Singapore Slings. It's one of the first things you find out there. What you do in Singapore is eat. It's a really food-crazy culture, where all of this great food is available in a kind of hawker-stand environment.”
– Anthony Bourdain

Singapore is a city and a country — it is the only city-island-nation in the world. It is a very progressive country, with a mix of futuristic architecture (Westworld's third season was mainly filmed in Singapore) and a hint of British influence (which I love most), preserved from its days as a colony. Being in Singapore is like stepping into the future, while being grounded in the present by its historical buildings.

I was born in Singapore, but left when I was very young so only have vague memories of growing up there. Whenever I visit, I don't quite feel like I fit in. I'm more of a foreigner, yet I look like them and speak the language fluently. One of my favorite things about the city: its cuisine. You can't get Singapore food anywhere else in the world.

Facts about Singapore

It was a British colony and gained independence from England in 1963, when it joined the Federation of Malaysia.
After two years of tense relationships, Singapore declared its independence from Malaysia in 1965.
Its official languages are English (Singlish), Chinese (Mandarin), and Malay.
The population is currently 5.7 million people.
Lee Kuan Yew was the country's first Prime Minister and the man who truly revolutionized Singapore.
The home ownership rate is a whopping 91% thanks to Singapore's innovative government housing scheme and quote system.
Singapore has a two-year mandatory military service for men, and devotes almost 20% of its government budget to it.
Considered a tax haven, many prominent businessmen have opted to make Singapore their main residence and nationality.
It is a tropical country and consists of 63 islands.
The Singaporean government censors sex and violence from all movies. (Watching Kill Bill would be impossible in Singapore!)
Hainanese Chicken Rice is the national dish.
While Singapore is quite conservative, they still have a Red Light District!

WHEN TO VISIT

Avoid traveling to Singapore in the summer, as it's monsoon season. The best time to go is in winter, otherwise it's super hot and muggy.

INSIDER TIPS

At least an overnight stay in Sentosa is a must to enjoy the nice getaway from the city.
Chewing gum is not allowed.
Make sure you have cash on hand, especially if you plan to go to a hawker center, as they are cash only.
Singapore is pretty casual in term of attire. Island-wear and city-wear are highly recommended.
Use the Grab app for ride-hailing. Uber doesn't work there.
Singapore is not known for it’s fashion. But shopping for tax free for designer brands are great at Orchard Road and Marina Bays Sand Shopping

WHAT NOT TO MISS

FOR ARTS AND CULTURE

National Museum of Singapore
ArtScience Museum at Marina Bay Sands
Singapore Art Museum
Botanic Gardens
Chinatown (the colonial architectures)

FOR DRINKS AND DINING

Sunset cocktails at Spago at Marina Sand Bay with a view
Smoke and Mirror (voted one of the best bars in the world) with a view
Atlas Bar has over 300 types of gin

FOR LEISURE

Sentosa — An island hop away from the center, perfect for a relaxing day at the beach or spa time

FOR SIGHT-SEEING

Merlion (symbol of Singapore)
Singapore airport’s butterfly garden and waterfall

Gardens by The Bay (I love the Cloud Forest)
Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple — You'll need to take your shoes off if you want to enter

WHERE TO STAY

For the view and the urban oasis vibe, Parkroyal Singapore Pickering — Westworld season 3 was filmed here

For the vibe, Mondrian Hotel Singapore

For the rooftop pool and location, Marina Sands Hotel

For the iconic and splurge, Raffles

For the nostalgia, Duxton Reserve

By the bay, The Warehouse Hotel

For getaway and the spa, Capella Singapore

WHERE TO EAT

Singapore’s cuisine is influenced by a variety of cultures since it is a home of immigrants from China, Malaysia, India, and more. The food is really unique and you are not going to get some of these special dishes anywhere else (well, at least it will not taste the same). We’ve narrowed down our top picks so you don’t have to:

TOP 3

Maxwell Hawker Center (for lunch)

Neighbourhood: Chinatown

Must try: Tian Tian Hainan Chicken, Orjak (Malaysia salad), popia (Chinese veggie wrap), starfruit and pear juice, Lasak (coconut milk based seafood soup with noodles), Mee pok (noodle dish and it's my go to), Nasi Lemak (Malaysian coconut rice dish with different side dishes), Beef or chicken randan (coconut based stew), Char kway teow (stir-fried flat rice noodles)

Newton Circle Hawker Center (for dinner)

Must try: Satay, any seafood, Hae me (shrimp seafood soup noodles), Ais Kacang (shaved rice with different toppings)

Jumbo Seafood

Note: make a reservation ahead of time to avoid long queues.

Must try: chili crab and pepper crab (I prefer the pepper crab).

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Violet Oon
Le Bon Funk
Cloudstreet
The Coconnut Club
Mustard Seed (Singapore food with Japanese twist)
Claudine Restaurant
Hamamoto (Japanese)
Labyrinth
Peach Blossoms (Chinese)
Summer Pavilion (Chinese)

WHERE TO HANG OUT

Bootsy Bellows. Photograph: Courtesy Elizabeth Daniels

Marquee — Maybe one of the most impressive clubs in the world outside of Vegas
Duxton St in Chinatown for bar hopping. Night Hawk, Last Word. Cat Bite Club.
Day drinking and sunset cocktails at Spargo at Marina Bay Sands
If you want a getaway from big city life, go to Tanjong Beach Club on Sentosa island. While in the area, you can also get your contemporary art fix at the Gillman Barracks, a cluster of different art galleries in old British-built military buildings. — Recommendation from Eva D

“Nobody in Singapore drinks Singapore Slings. It's one of the first things you find out there. What you do in Singapore is eat. It's a really food-crazy culture, where all of this great food is available in a kind of hawker-stand environment.”

– Anthony Bourdain